We explored Mostnica Gorge on a spring afternoon. The rain started, stopped, and started again and the clouds hung thick and low. But even in less than perfect weather, this hike was one of my favourite Slovenia adventures.
Wandering through the forest, alongside the rushing river, we dodged raindrops. And when the clouds eventually cleared to reveal snow-capped peaks, Voje Valley transformed into a picture-perfect alpine scene.
Bohinj & Triglav National Park
Bohinj is home to the largest lake in Slovenia. But that’s not all there is to the region. In Bohinj, cheerful villages nestle at the base of the Julian Alps, waterfalls tumble over rocks, and Mount Vogel soars over everything. Wooden hay racks, roaming chickens, and bright wildflowers add to the region’s wholesome appeal. So if you’ve ever wanted to skip through meadows, musical-style, Bohinj is the place to do it.
Significantly quieter then Bled, Bohinj is a serene escape from the high-season crowds. So if you’re looking for less touristy spots to explore, you could easily fill a couple of days here. Mostnica Gorge, north of Lake Bohinj, is an example of this quiet beauty.
Lesser-known than the Vintgar Gorge, one of Triglav National Park’s most popular highlights, Mostnica Gorge is a peaceful place to wander. There’s a shorter and longer hike to choose from, but both routes offer a healthy dose of nature.
Mostnica Gorge Trail (1.5 Hours Return)
To explore the area, everyone starts off on the shorter trail. There’s an entrance fee of €3, which you’ll need to pay in cash at a small hut. When we arrived, we were greeted by a man with a map, whose passion for the region was wonderfully clear. Even in the drenching rain, and with another waterfall to see, his enthusiasm convinced us that the full route was worth doing.
Carved by the turquoise Mostnica stream, the gorge stretches for 2 km through a section of forest. Crystal clear water rushes downstream, tumbling over rocks and swirling in small whirlpools. Narrow trails trace the edges of the gorge and small bridges connect both sides.
On the trail’s lowest points, you’ll get a closer look at the shallow pools, mini cascades, and intricate limestone formations. Keep an eye out for “Little Elephant”, Mostnica’s most photographed rock. And while you’re at it, look out for black and yellow Fire Salamanders – we spotted one relaxing on the water’s edge.
At the end of the gorge, a stone bridge leads to the trail on the other side. To loop back to the beginning of the route, cross the bridge, turn left, and follow the forest path along the other side. On a quiet day at the gorge, birds chirping, insects buzzing, and the rumble of rushing water are the only sounds you’re likely to hear. As we made our way over slippery tree roots and fallen leaves, we passed only a handful of other people on the trail.
Voje Valley and Mostnica Waterfall Trail (3.5 hours return)
The route continues to Mostnica Waterfall, weaving upwards through the lush meadows of Voje Valley. Once you cross the bridge at the end of the gorge, turn right. A short, steep section of the trail leads up to a quiet road, where you’ll see a restaurant. With expansive mountain views and home-cooked food, Voje Mountain Hut (Koča na Vojah) is a beautiful place to stop and fuel up. But the restaurant is only open at weekends, so bring snacks if you’re exploring mid-week.
From Voje Mountain Hut, a gravel road meanders through green pastures, dotted with summer houses and alpine huts. Jagged mountains tower on either side, framed against the open sky. Cows graze the meadows of the Voje Valley in autumn, but while we walked, the whole place was still. Every house was silent, shutters closed, waiting for summer.
Still, for some reason, I got my hopes up when I saw the second restaurant, Voje Waterfall Alpine Hut, in the distance. The thought of a warm blueberry strudel overcame common sense. And although we’d passed only two other people in the valley, I thought it might be open. It wasn’t. Instead, we sat outside and dined on snacks, against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains.
Mostnica Waterfall
Beyond the Voje Waterfall Alpine Hut, the trail narrows again into a signposted rocky trail. Winding upwards, the trail leads all the way to Mostnica Waterfall. At 21 metres high, Mostnica isn’t Slovenia’s most impressive waterfall and it’s much less famous than Savica Waterfall (Slap Savica). But there’s something special about watching the tumble of fresh water, plunging over smooth rocks and into the Mostnica Stream below.
Hiking the Mostnica Waterfall trail is one of the loveliest ways to explore this region of Slovenia. Refreshing and energising, it’s a route that passes through serene landscapes. So if you get the opportunity to go, breathe in the mountain air, look out for wildflowers, and enjoy every second of the silence.
Getting to Mostnica Gorge
To reach the trailhead, there are a couple of options. From the village of Ribčev Laz, where we stayed in the wonderful Hotel Jezero, it’s an easy 30-minute walk to the beginning of the gorge. From Ribčev Laz, follow the signposted road to the village of Stara Fužina. Continue through the village until you reach the Devil’s Bridge and you’ll find the trailhead for Mostnica Gorge just beyond it.
Alternatively, you can follow the Bohinj lakeside path until you reach the lake car park. A little past the car park, a track veers off to the right, which will also take you into Stara Fužina. Instead of crossing the river, you can take a left through the village to the Stara Fužina carpark. From there, a narrow track runs to the start of the Mostnica Gorge.
Planning to visit Mostnica Gorge?
- You’ll need to pay the €3 entrance fee in cash when you arrive at the gorge.
- The trail is rocky and the tree roots are slippery when wet. So although it’s an easy hike, it’s a good idea to wear trail shoes or hiking boots.
- For a beautiful place to stay, try Hotel Jezero. It’s a spacious hotel overlooking the lake.
- There are daily buses from Lake Bled to Lake Bohinj and vice-versa but check the timetable before you travel.
- You can also take the train to Bohinj Bistrica. But the train station is a bus/ taxi ride away from Bohinj Lake.
- Bohinj is a 1-hour drive from Ljubljana and a 30-minute drive from Bled.
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